Humay's poems and writings

I want to be a woman eating cold grapefruits in the morning and drinking chilled Pinot Grigio,

I want to be a woman, who catches luck as easily as cold and looks of strangers,

I want to be a woman arriving into a city waking up with red-orange rays of sun,

On a train, window seat, with light head and soaring spirit yet tired legs,

After a night of dancing, listening to Nina Simone.

I want to be a woman as graceful as the lionesses on the poster on my wall,

Crossing a seasonal stream in the Okavango Delta, Botswana

Fierce in their determination.

I want to be a woman, who is a magician of Oz in the kitchen,

To whose call pots and pans and kettles and dough and exquisite French recipes obey,

And even Chinese ones, perhaps.

Who handles the revolution of spices as easily,

As revolutions of nations.

After all, I am named after a bird living its entire life flying invisibly high above the Earth,Huma!

20 January

So many pompous poems written,

"Blood dripping off the red carnations.."

So many graves dug overnight,

Shallow and too lonely for the young ones,

So many words spoken at these graves,

Of the big and fat kind:

"We shall never..."

"We will always..."


And yet,

Nothing can quite convey,

My mother's tears

On the morning of January 20th.

The nation's awakening,

Anger and grief,

Vast and deep and all embracing,

As an ocean

Sweeping everything in front of it.

Leaving behind only,

The smoke of burned Communist party cards,

Vanishing seventy years of history,

2011

All of a sudden how old, tired and dusty you seem.

All these people trying to send you off packing as quickly as possible,

Mad and frustrated - you didn’t give them

Cars, houses and handsome lovers with generous hearts

And even more generous pockets…

“Sic transit gloria mundi,” you sigh…

Come and sit with me across my table.

Pinot Noir or Merlot, perhaps?

(I cannot afford Dom Perignon champagne at the moment

And what is there to celebrate anyway?)

Light a cigarette

(I’ll pretend I can smoke as well,

To keep you company

Though those who smoked with me

Know

What a hopeless,

Shameless

Amateur I am,

I rather like the hazy, lazy, faraway expression my eyes take when smoking)

“Did I, at least, give you What you wanted?”

You ask.

Humans are such ungrateful

Capricious, yet lovely

Bastards.

Eternally and hopelessly Hopeful.

My dear, my one and only, sad cookie – abandoned 2011.

And so we smoke and so you tell,

That it’s not your fault after all

The economic and financial fall,

The social ladder’s sudden stall,

The Nature’s catastrophic toll,

The lack of people to enthrall,

And my, where is justice for all?

And you walk off into the night.

(Sad and melancholic as certain songs Of Tom Waits and Leonard Cohen.

The same 3 AM vulnerability and rusty nails in a tender throat,

Washed away by plenty of bad whiskey at a roadside blues bar.)

Enter 2012.

Splendid, as the most beautiful of Greek gods,

Golden-bowed, golden-curled Apollo.

With its dizzying possibilities,

Infinite opportunities,

Audacity and illumination.

Quietly powerful and deep,

Pure and raw and restless as the mountain streams of my country,

Flowing into a wilder, truer, more admirable world.

(Shall I spend my nonexistent 500 dollars

And buy that Dom Perignon To toast you?)

He kisses my lips,

My hands,

My clumsily painted fingernails

And even more clumsily painted toes.

Sits on my red Ikea couch,

Throws one leg over the other.

Winks with a mischievous delight.

Wants to light a first cigarette.

“Wait,” I say.

“No smoking now.

Let’s sit in this lucidity,

and clarity

and dawn

For a while.”

And so we do,

2012 and me.

Empty as a newborn’s brain.

And just as hungry

For a life to begin.

To love the impossibility of New-York…

“Well, people are always writing about themselves,” Josh said. His feet, clad in brown cowboy boots with pointy edges were on the table – the quintessential American trait my grandma talked about as the climax of bad manners. This was the first time I saw it live. The setting was appropriate – New York, graduate creative writing program, half an hour allotted to discuss my submission from two weeks ago. By then I had been in New York for three weeks, two weeks in the program. People asked me if I was enjoying it and the truth is I wasn’t. I did not have a place of my own. For days and days, I covered miles and miles in the subway and on foot, rats scurrying on the tracks filling me with the despair deeper than the usual disgust. The rooms I saw – I abandoned quickly the idea of a studio – were small, lightless, airless, charmless. I didn’t want to compromise on my ideal of a room. If I would, I felt, it would be the first in a long, unending stream of compromises I would make in the city, to the city. In New York, one loves the impossibility, never the hopelessness. “Tell me, really,” I asked Josh. “Can these things be taught?” “I am not sure if talent can be taught, but techniques – yes. Surely.” The kids in the program were too young, too white, too American. At some seminars, the water bottles, yoghurts, granola bars, apples, bananas, little containers of kale salads with walnut and feta cheese scattered on the table. You can’t be this healthy and write good stuff, I thought. There was a Frenchman, two Israelis, a girl from Venezuela, a Chinese American girl, a Sri Lankan American. Maybe there were more. The Frenchman, Simon had an impeccable British accent, was extremely well read. He asked if I had read Svetlana Alexievich in Russian. I had not, I said. He said I looked, spoke and gestured exactly like Ece Temelkuran, a Turkish journalist. I Googled this Ece to see if she was pretty. The Israeli girl, Didi, seemed mysterious and self-contained, I was curious to read her. “What is good about these stories?” I asked Josh. “And I am not fishing for compliments.” “Look,” Josh said. “A lot of people here think that what is happening to them is important and deserves to be written about. You seem to know what isreally important in the world. And you have things to say that many people don’t.” A woman with three kids entered the subway. The boys were chubby, but pale, with dark rings under their eyes. One had a Coke bottle, another some cheap biscuits. The woman was drunk, seemed to be teetering on edge, maybe going through severe drug withdrawal. The smallest boy clang to her, asked something. “No! No! You are not coming with me tomorrow! I need a me time!” she shouted. “Me time!” With one hand she was holding on to the pole, while the other scratched furiously the multiple black spots on her face. Her hand went down to her nipples to scratch. She wasn’t wearing a bra. A sit emptied, she sat down and the same boy rushed to hug her. She pushed him away. “Get away! GET A-WAY!” The kids seemed unfazed. I looked around, to make eye contact with someone, to shake my head – but everyone was glued to their iPhone screen, listening to music. The boys were tender, cooing “Mummy, Mummy” and I thought this was love reigning, supreme, unconditional and it surely was an important thing to write about. “Also,” said Josh. “When you are slowing down, when you control your narrative, there are some beautiful details.” I had been searching for three weeks. Ten years ago, communication was not so instant; some time elapsed between seeing the place online, writing the owner, checking it out. Now you had to refresh Gypsy Housing Facebook page every few minutes, to message first when a good offer appeared. Within hours, the good deals got at least 50-60 comments. This constant, barren hunt wore me down. At Brooklyn Book Festival, Jonathan Safran Foer – I have not read him – was asked what a good life was. He said he could not know, but mused about the title of his recent book, “Here I Am.” In Genesis, when God called Abraham to sacrifice his son, Abraham said ‘Here I am.’ And when Isaac, on the way to sacrificial pyre, called his father, Abraham said ‘Here I am’ again. “So I’d say, part of it is about this unapologetic, unconditional presence to your own life,” said Jonathan. I am not too comfortable with the idea of a roomful of prospective writers. If indeed, such a room exists, it should be a café in “vaguely literary, vaguely unstable Paris” to quote Bolano. I look at the paragraphs written and realize how in quick succession I quoted multiple characters – Foer, God, Abraham, Bolano. “When writing your diaries,” Josh said. “You should always ask yourself The Jewish Question.” “What is the Jewish Question?” I asked, wondering if he was Jewish. “What is different today?” I am tempted to write that today I finally found a place – a bright, big, quiet, uncompromising room. This is true. But Hari, another professor of mine, would say that such clean endings are overrated, trite. So let us all ponder on the Jewish question for another interminable moment.

Once in Shirokino

No notes remain of that memorable trip to Shirokino, and the memories are sketchy. For an amnesiac as myself, it’s a miracle that even these sketchy memories remain after five years. But then, you don’t forget places as Shirokino easily. Robert Capa said that if your pictures were not good enough, you were not close enough. We were close enough in Shirokino; if the picture is not good enough, you can put the blame on me, on my faulty memory. Shirokino was the first name I heard upon arriving to Mariupol. I was expecting to be driven home, open my suitcases, take a shower, sleep. Instead Maksim drove me straight to the office. Tasha immediately started the briefing. Her first sentence was about Shirokino, how they almost went on that day for an evaluation, but at the last minute, the management “redlighted.” She showed an obscure point on the map, a village on the Azov Sea. Tasha had been managing Mariupol office singlehandedly for three months; she was desperate for help, working round the clock and in retrospect, her enthusiasm is understandable. She had been asking for a Russian speaking delegate with some experience, but the pool of Russian speakers was extremely small, so after a while, she conceded simply for a Russian speaker, without any experience in conflict settings. That was me. Prior to conflict, 1500 lived in Shirokino, and it was a prosperous village with many summer houses of those who lived in Mariupol. The fights in the immediate vicinity of Shirokino – a village between Ukrainian controlled Mariupol and separatist controlled Novoazovsk - started in September 2014 as separatists pushed ahead but calmed down when Minsk Protocol was signed a few days later. In November, when Tasha almost went, the situation was tense, but stable and people, while in fear, continued living in Shirokino. When she told me that the management did not allow the trip, as they were unsure about security guarantees, secretly and without admitting it to myself, I rejoiced; I thought we could go together and I was curious to see. In February, the situation deteriorated. Separatist forces occupied Shirokino, which according to Minsk Memorandum, was part of a “neutral” zone. Five days later, “Azov” – one of the fiercest volunteer battalions – answered to this provocation by commencing an offensive. Shirokino became a battleground, with the sides shelling each other from Grad and Uragan multiple rocket launcher systems, weapons prohibited under Minsk Protocols, weapons not discriminatory by their very nature. How relevant was documenting a case of a civilian dwelling burned “due to a lack of precaution in attack” or “in defense” – as both sides had positioned themselves in the immediate vicinity of civilian objects – when the entire village was going to hell? There was a long debate, arguments pin ponging back and forth in interminable email chains about giving tarpaulin for the displaced from Shirokino, so they could go and cover their houses to prevent rain from falling in through their destroyed roofs. How naïve we all were, I think, even to have these discussions and how naïve were those displaced of Shirokino, imagining they could go back eventually and repair their houses. In the end, we decided not to give tarpaulin, as it would expose the displaced unnecessarily, giving them an incentive to return to the village which was actively mined by both sides, let alone risks of a sudden shelling, stray bullet or a sniper who would get suspicious of someone climbing on the roof. There were those who insisted for the bloody tarpaulin donation – “but they are going anyway,” they said, and once again, I realized how true the adage that the road to hell was paved with good intentions. By March most of Shirokino had been destroyed, the village rendered uninhabitable. Only 40 people were remaining, living in basements, coming out in rare lulls between endless bouts of shelling. On March 25th, OSCE facilitated a day long ceasefire; we would go in and distribute food parcels to the people remaining. Usually, we kept a prudent distance from the OSCE, not wanting to be associated or confused with them. It was not their fault, but people didn’t like them. OSCE’s mandate was to monitor the conduct of hostilities and call the sides to comply with Minsk agreements; to a common villager though, the view of foreigners arriving en masse in bulletproof vests, Rayban glasses, beefed up – most of them were formal army or police corps – taking notes, only to jump into cars and leave as soon as the going got rough, was repulsive. True, OSCE reported quite a bit on the humanitarian situation and had a section of human rights monitoring – but these details were invisible to the outsider. The OSCE negotiated ceasefire felt funny, used as we were to manage our own security arrangements. But the opportunity was rare to come by and humanitarian catastrophe of Shirokino overwrote any misgivings we might have had. Tasha was in Geneva, and I would be in charge. The operational presence would be minimal – me, the driver and Vlad. When I arrived in the morning, 40 food parcels were already loaded in. As an exception, Maksim – our Logistician - put three helmets in the trunk. “Nu, Humay,” he said. “S Bogom.” May God be with you. Once we passed the Ukrainian controlled checkpoint, I called “Shaman,” our contact on the separatist side. He had a deep voice and his call sign suited him; the other side seemed to me sinister, evil, treacherous but also elusive, phantom-like. No man’s land felt eerie, we were not sure where the distribution point was. I had OSCE liaison’s phone number, but the connection had disappeared. No bars appeared on my cell phone no matter how many times I switched it on and off. I had a satellite phone, but for it to function I had to step down from the car, open the antenna and wait for a signal. I was afraid to, I had noted a few rocket heads sticking out from the asphalt. What if there was a trip wire? We were driving blindly on a road, when it came to an obstacle – burnt-out remains of an armored vehicle. We paused, we stared. Vlad quietly whistled behind me. “Turn back, Pasha,” I said. Pavel put the vehicle in reverse. We were fortunate; as we gingerly drove, we saw a few separatist fighters walking along the road. They looked tattered and dirty, opening fish cans with their knives. We asked where “OBSEshniki” were, and they showed us. Shirokino’s destruction was absolute; the village’s eastern part was occupied by the separatists, western by the Ukrainian Army. We parked in reverse position, as we always did, to leave immediately if the trouble happened. I immediately glimpsed Alexander Hug, Deputy Chief Monitor of OSCE, standing in the middle of the street, surrounded by villagers. Hug had an imposing presence; he was loved, he was loathed, but he certainly did not leave many indifferent. He was a lawyer-turned Swiss Army soldier and one of the first investigators to arrive at the wreckage site of MH-17 . Here in Shirokino, Hug’s tall frame, pressed blue shirt would appear almost incongruous juxtaposed with villagers emerging timidly from their basements, pale and fearful, if not for the fact that he cared very much. After the visit, he made a statement. “What my colleagues and I saw today was catastrophic,” he said. “People who remained in the village had to seek shelter in very challenging conditions. We met a family with small children who were shell shocked and did not want to leave their house despite the fact that the ceasefire was holding for a second day.” Vlad was good. He knew we had little time; the negotiated ceasefire was fragile, hanging on a delicate thread of each individual soldier’s goodwill. A single gun round was enough for it to collapse, more so as the sides were so close. Tension was palpable. But it was sunny, warm and after endless winter, end of March felt festive, even in ruined village, even for ruined inhabitants of this village, I thought, judging from their relieved faces. One by one, Shirokino residents approached the car, took their parcels and signed next to their names on the printed form. And then someone mentioned the corpse. There was a man killed, they said, approximately eight days ago, during shelling. His body was still lying in the yard. “Did he have family?” I asked, and they said, no, he was an alcoholic, living alone, his children somewhere in Russia. We had body bags but were strictly instructed only to give them out, not do any handlings ourselves. I had seen a video where explosives were put under a dead soldier, to injure the living when they collected their fallen comrade. True – this was a civilian and I doubt anyone would think of such perversity; but going to his yard was dangerous, there might have been unexploded ordnance. Hug said they would take care of it. I gave him the body bag set – it came with gloves and masks. Three OSCE monitors joined him; a man volunteered to show the way. We were almost finishing with our parcels, when they returned, each holding one corner of a body bag. We put the bag in the trunk, to take the body to Mariupol morgue for identification. Pavel was visibly troubled, grumbling under his nose. I tried to preserve equanimity, as if it was a perfectly normal situation. I felt a subtle unease of fighters around us. A couple of radios crackled with static. People seemed nervous as well; it had been quiet for far too long for it to be normal. And then there was a shot. Another one followed. Ceasefire was broken. “Uezzhayte,” people said. Leave. We said we would come back on the next occasion, but it was not to happen. OSCE never managed to negotiate another ceasefire. On 3rd of July, OSCE stated that no civilians remained in the village. On 5th of July, Donetsk People Republic’s “defense minister” Kononov said that the village had no strategic importance for separatists, as it was in the valley and heights were controlled by Ukrainians, so they had retreated two kilometers away from the village. Yet in that moment, racing into the safety of Ukrainian controlled territory, me and Vlad were happy. We had completed a distribution; 40 people had some food to count on for a while. We were bringing back a body; it was gruesome, but the man would be buried, a measure of his dignity would be restored. He, of course, no longer cared about dignity as such, but I believed we were all a bit more dignified for having put some order into the chaos. When slowed down at the checkpoint, they asked us if all was normal. “Normalno,” we said and were waved in. “It feels like a Tarantino film,” I said to Vlad. “Imagine they ask us: rebyata, chto vezem?” Kids, what are we bringing? “And we say - a cadaver.” We arrived at the morgue; Vlad had called the killed man’s landlady when we left Shirokino, she arrived shortly after to identify him. She took a quick glance at his body, said it’s him. We thanked her, but she hesitated. “I am sorry,” she said. “I took a taxi to arrive quickly. Is there any chance?” Vlad passed her discreetly 50 hryvnia note. “Blin,” he said, when she left. “Here a man got killed and she asks me for a taxi fare. Vot tebe i zhizn.” And here is life for you. He paused, took out a cigarette and smoked in the fading light, his fingers trembling imperceptibly. Vlad was 22. He was just a kid.
*** A true war story is never moral. It does not instruct, nor encourage virtue nor suggest models of proper human behavior, nor restrain men from doing things men have always done.

“The Things They Carried” Tim O’Brien

How I cried in a mission

This is a story of how I cried for the first time in a mission. In these three and a half years, I have only cried twice. Tasha was adamant to move beyond the “buffer zone,” to enter and bring assistance to villages controlled by separatist forces. She said our cars crossing back and forth the line of contact would show the truly neutral and impartial stance of the organization, helping the civilian population in both government controlled and non-government-controlled territories. It was certainly important from a symbolic point of view, as the ICRC was practically unknown – normal for a country where peace reigned after the end of the Second World War. But there was also a very essential question of needs – all villages along the line of contact were hungry, destitute and under shelling in winter of 2015, yet the situation was direr in separatist controlled villages. The Ukrainian state was no longer present, and separatists were too busy fighting to put in place any relief mechanisms. In December 2014, the sub-delegation had already been opened in Donetsk city, but needs were massive in Debaltseve and Donetsk itself, the staff was overstretched, and these God forgotten villages were too far. To us in Mariupol, though, they were close, a mere 20 kilometers away. But we had a problem – Tasha had no contact with any of the local commanders who could give us security guarantees and facilitate the delivery of humanitarian assistance. OSCE office in Mariupol did patrolling in the separatist controlled villages of Oktiabr and Zaichenko as well. They were prohibited from passing their contacts to Tasha but could certainly pass her card to one of commanders. They spoke of a guy with a call sign “John”; said he was an Arab. I remember thinking how incongruous for an Arab to choose such a quintessentially American nom de guerre. I wondered how an Arab ended up among separatists. There was a fair share of Chechens and Georgians forming separate battalions and fighting on the government-controlled side, fueled by their hatred to Russia and adventure seeking Europeans on both sides of the line of contact, lusting adrenaline. But an Arab? Well, stranger things happen in life and in war. We were in “Mamma Mia,” a pizza place in the center when Tasha received a call from an unknown number. There were many of us, so she stepped outside. When she returned, her eyes were shining, her smile victorious. “It was John,” she whispered, barely containing her excitement. “I’ll call him back from the office.” In the office, she called me to her room. “You are famous, my dear,” she said. “What do you mean?” “John asked me if there was a Muslim girl in my team. I have to admit I had to think about it, before realizing he was referring to you.” “Strange,” I said. I could not imagine where “John” could have heard about me. “Anyway, we are meeting him in two days in Oktiabr. I really hope he can help us to bring assistance there.” “Sounds like a plan,” I said. It sounded exciting, meeting a real separatist commander, and an Arab mercenary at that, though I knew I would disappoint him as a Muslim. “Do you know anything from Koran?” Tasha asked. “I know Shahada. And a half of Fatiha,” I laughed. “Better than nothing, I guess.” “Yeah, I guess.” Two days later, we crossed Gnutovo checkpoint. We said to the soldiers that we would be in the buffer zone and asked them not to shoot. Neytralka was quiet. When we arrived at the separatist controlled checkpoint, a military jeep was waiting. John was standing outside. “Salam,” he said, when he saw me descending. “As-salamu aleikum,” I said. And peace be upon to you too. I was not sure whether to extend a hand and fumbled for a second. “Siz Bakıdansız?” (Are you from Baku) Time froze. My jaw dropped; it took me a couple of seconds to realize that John was my compatriot. He was asking whether I was from Baku “Bəli,” (Yes) I said. Yes. “And what are you doing here?” he asked. “What are you doing here?” I asked him. “Nu, let’s switch to Russian, so my boss understands too.” John said he was a soldier of fortune, a mercenary, naemnik. “I’ve been to Syria, Afghanistan, Iraq, I’ve been fighting for seven years,” he said. “I would have liked to fight for Ukrainians, but they pay more here.” John was trying to switch to Azeri every now and then; I found him repulsive, didn’t want any fake camarderie based on our national tie. I felt as an idiot for having considered him an Arab. True, he had a heavily accented Russian, but still...How could these useless OSCE monitors confuse a man from Caucasus with an Arab? Most of them working in Ukraine were from post-Soviet space. John went on for a usual rant – how the ICRC were all spies, Western stooges, not to be trusted. He didn’t let us pass beyond the checkpoint, not to see their military hardware. He questioned our wish to bring humanitarian assistance. All of a sudden, an infantry fighting vehicle rolled from behind the checkpoint. I had never seen one so up close. It looked pretty destructive; roared on with two soldiers on top. “Where is it going?” asked Tasha. She was worried - for a good reason, it was gentleman’s agreement not to carry out any hostilities with the ICRC present in the buffer zone. John didn’t answer, grinned. With his dirty beard, loose military pants, he looked malicious. I wanted to punch him. Shots were fired, quite close. Tasha called her contact at Gnutovo, said we were on our way back. Just as fast as it had left, the infantry fighting vehicle returned, rolled through the barrier of the checkpoint, disappeared. We jumped in the car. It was a fast drive; in five minutes we arrived to Gnutovo. The air was tense, the checkpoint animated. A soldier slowed us down, peered in. “Mediki est?” (Is there doctors?) he asked. Are there any medics? “Net,” (No) we said. I noticed a soldier lying on the curb, bleeding. “Go, go, go,” shouted the soldier. “Don’t slow down.” We arrived to the office and Sergei told me the news. A soldier was wounded inGnutovo, as separatists surprised them with an attack. He didn’t survive until the arrival of the ambulance. I entered Tasha’s office. “This motherfucker John. He used us to carry out an attack.” “We cannot know that,” Tasha said, but went pale. “Come on, Tasha, of course he did. Ukrainians knew we were there, so they would not shoot, and he just made sure we arrived safely to launch an attack. My God.” And I cried bitterly, out loud, recalling the anxious face of a young soldier asking for medics, the sight of a wounded soldier on a curb, the panic at the checkpoint, John blocking the entrance to Oktiabr. Blood spilled, innocence lost, baptism of fire. At midnight, John sent me a text message. “You are like a sister to me,” he said. “We are far from home, you can count on me for anything. You saw something you should not have seen today. What does a young woman like yourself do here?” He was a lunatic, I thought; I didn’t answer. A month or so after I read that “a separatist fighter with a call sign John was wounded in Shirokino.” He was taken to Novoazovsk hospital, but did not survive. I wasn’t happy, but wasn’t sad either. I was only curious about his real name. I learned it later by chance from a detainee in Mariupol reason who had fought alongside him. It was “Javanshir,” Azeri for a “young lion.” ***

I want the aroma of coffee. I want nothing more than the aroma of coffee. And I want nothing more from the passing days than the aroma of coffee. The aroma of coffee so I can hold myself together, stand on my feet, and be transformed from something that crawls, into a human being. The aroma of coffee so I can stand my share of this dawn up on its feet. So that we can go together, this day and I, down into the street in search of another place. How can I diffuse the aroma of coffee into my cells, while shells from the sea rain down on the sea-facing kitchen, spreading the stink of gunpowder and the taste of nothingness? I measure the period between two shells. One second. One second: shorter than the time between breathing in and breathing out, between two heartbeats. One second is not long enough for me to stand before the stove by the glass facade that overlooks the sea. One second is not long enough to open the water bottle or pour the water into the coffee pot. One second is not long enough to light a match. But one second is long enough for me to burn.

Mahmoud Darwish, “Memory for Forgetfullness

The restless day

The day before yesterday, I had a moment with Caterina, the Italian delegate here. A moment in a negative sense of the word. Here is what happened: she called at around 3 p.m. as I was cleaning the apartment and launched into an angry monologue as I asked her “come vai?” Caterina’s English is not particularly good, and I would much rather prefer her to speak French or Spanish. She was talking in a very high-pitched tone, very fast. A woman from Ituango had been calling her, a woman who was supposed to receive a money transfer in the framework of our assistance to the families of the disappeared. She had been asking Caterina whether she could withdraw money tomorrow, as she had already tried the day before and the clerk told her that there was nothing. “She called me already five times today and I keep calling Jorge, and he is not answering, yes, I understand, it’s a holiday, but I don’t bother people like that, if there is no reason, so I called Narllys and Narllys called his private phone, and he still doesn’t answer, and this woman, she can’t wait until Monday, she is starving…Jorge wrote a message yesterday that she has withdrawn the money, but it can’t be true, because she keeps calling me...” I was amazed. I tried to put in a word, but it was not possible. So, I resigned myself and listened. I thought it was damn obvious that I could not have done anything about the situation if I heard of it only now. “I don’t know Humay, I don’t know…I thought we are a chain. On Monday, I will tell Otchoa. What is this?” (Chain? Perhaps she meant that we are a team.) “Caterina,” I said. “Let me call Jorge, maybe he’ll answer.” Jorge is my deputy. He has been working for the ICRC for 10 years. He is good in what he does – following up on individual cases of the disappeared, explaining the delegates the steps they should take with regards to a case, identifying which information is lacking, which cases are to be closed, as all possible actions have been exhausted and which cases deserve one more shot, one final rabbit hole to go down to before giving up. He is also good with the budget. When I started, Jorge seemed aloof. He has an Indian face, chiseled cheekbones, inscrutable expression. He never tells anything of his private life and I suspect he is gay. But over time, as he came over more and more frequently to discuss a situation and we found solutions together, I felt the ice thaw. I trust Jorge, maybe not hands down, maybe not how I would trust Sergiy, but I trust him. I call him, and he picks up immediately. “Que mas?” he says. (This expression utterly confused me in the beginning. A very paisa saying – that is, a saying belonging to a department of Antioquia – it literally translates as “what else?” but what it truly means is “how are you?” My first reflex is still to say, “nada mas,” nothing else, nothing new since we saw each other last.) “I am good,” I say. “Jorge, Caterina has been calling you. Please call her. Please call her now.” He calls, and they resolve the confusion. Jorge was the one who made a mistake, mixed two cases, and no wonder, with so many families to process and check daily, it’s normal. Caterina sends me a voice message – saying she is sorry but and going on and on about not being able to focus on her work, as the woman kept calling her. And I want to tell her that an excuse with the “but” coming in after five seconds is not a genuine excuse, is not an excuse at all. Yet I am nice, I am well raised, so I say it’s fine and next time she should call me immediately, and not wait for such a long time if the problem is not solved. I finish mopping the kitchen floor, but my peace is gone, the bliss invading me in final hours prior to breaking the fast evaporated in thin air. I am angry. I am good and angry. I am angry as Caterina dared to raise her voice at me, and I don’t remember when this happened the last time to me. I am angry as I managed the situation without escalating it, my usual politically correct self. I think of bitching to Mario – a good colleague, a good counterpart in emotional debriefing. I almost pick the phone, when suddenly it strikes me as immature, cowardly, another way to evade the problem rather than address it heads-on. I write to Caterina instead. “But bella, please do not like that to me in the future. I don’t want anyone to talk to me in this tone even for my errors, much less for errors of others. I am sorry, but it bothered me, and I wanted you to know, rather than complain or bitch to anyone. C’est tout. I understand everything but still. Have a lovely evening.” Shower was good, washed away my anger, which gave way to a surprise. Caterina was a good colleague, a good confidante, someone with whom I enjoyed sharing a joke over mango biche. She seemed perfectly reasonable and often complained of Laura – a fellow Italian – who was overly dramatic, shouting and screaming on the phone with her family, or crying as she was not accepted to a training. What happened to Caterina? My aunt would always say that people show their real tarbiya – one of these untranslatable expressions, meaning manners, the way one has been raised up, behavior – in truly stressful situations. “It’s easy to be good when everything is good,” she’d say. “Come be good when it’s not.” I found it unbelievable how people could not manage their emotions, lost their shit so easily. And Caterina was not a baby. She was only six months younger than I was, a month shy of 34. What would happen if the shit would truly hit the fan? This is when I thought of Shirokino. Shirokino in March 2015. ***

Billy could not read Trafalmadorian, of course, but he could at least see how the books were laid out – in brief clumps of symbols separated by stars. Billy commented that the clumps might be telegrams. “Exactly,” said the voice. “They are telegrams?” “There are no telegrams on Trafalmadore. But you’re right: each clump of symbols is a brief, urgent message – describing a situation, a scene. We Trafalmadorians read them all at once, not one after the other. There isn’t any particular relationship between all the messages, except that the author has chosen them carefully, so that, when seen all at once, they produce an image of life that is beautiful and surprising and deep. There is no beginning, no middle, no end, no suspense, no moral, no causes, no effects. What we love in our books are the depths of many marvelous moments seen all at one time.

“Slaughterhouse Five,” Kurt Vonnegut

My mother in four movements


Summer

My mother never said that I am beautiful, but once. Before and after she used infinite times “charming,” “sweet,” “pretty,” "nice," and even “you have a devil’s hair on your face,” which in Azeri means that everyone is drawn to me. But never "beautiful." I dived out of the sea after a long swim underneath, in front of her. The weather was perfect, the sky immense and the Caspian clear. I sucked in the air hungrily and laughed breathlessly and mom said: “Humay, you have a very brave beauty, you know.” I dived back in with my eyes wide open. The waters of the Caspian are not salty. They shouldn’t be, as it is the largest lake in the world. Yet, it defies the definition over and over again - crashing waves with stubborn violence against the rocks, polishing them fiercely, drowning every summer the grim number of unfortunate swimmers and inspiring the poets. Caspian is the ultimate sea, with no access to the ocean and despite all the geographers might say. Underwater, the sea embraced me with light blue cut across by rays of sun. I swam, full of dizzying, defying confidence. The imperceptible change of light winked from the seabed. I emerged from underwater. Transformed. Beautiful.


Autumn

Early autumn is a special splendor in villages around Baku. The air is clearer, the stars are brighter and higher, the nights cooler, the dog barks louder, and so is the Caspian; come to think of it, Caspian is extremely loud, whipped mercilessly by khazri, the northern wind and nothing can match the taste of lamb kabab eaten at mangal. The summer is gone. Yet at seven in the morning, the ripe figs burst with a sinful juice as a carnival in a sleepy cave of your mouth. The truth is you shouldn’t be here - summer houses are for summers only. Still, every year, we managed to steal a few September days and add them to summer’s count. On one of these days the kitten came. Nobody knew where it came from. As the majority of life’s facts (read: love), it appeared out of the blue one morning and stayed. My mom never liked the animals. This kitten was an exception though. She made a toy for it herself, a roll of thin paper on a long string. She laughed, when the kitten jumped high up to grab the roll. Her mischief was a pure delight, her bliss contagious. She made a habit of sleeping on a doormat. The door was heavy metal. We opened it in the mornings and locked at nights. During the day we put a chair in front of it, so it wouldn’t slam shut with bouts of wind. There was another, lighter door with a wooden frame and a net to keep mosquitoes away. Once, having tea at the balcony, we heard a shriek. My aunt leaped and ran. Someone must have forgotten to put the chair in front of the door. It slammed shut and squeezed the kitten in lethal embrace. The animal trembled. Something yellow and disgusting poured out of its ear. My aunt put it on lawn. It lied there, breathing heavily and shit itself. “This is not good,” she said. “Cats are very clean animals.” I brought milk. Water. Meat. No reaction. My aunt snapped fingers in front of kitten’s face. Blank. “Maybe she got blind,” she said. The tiny animal shrank into a helpless lump. I hovered around for half a day. My mother finally told us to put the animal at the far end of the yard. “Let’s wait and see what happens.” I kept on checking on the kitten. Every time I expected it to be dead, life extinguished out of its small body. Yet there it was on the ground, unmistakably alive. At the end of two days, my mother suggested to put it to sleep. “It is only for the better. Poor thing is in agony.” There was a man, a jack of all trades who worked in our summer house. We asked him if he knew a vet in the village. He asked why. “It’s a sin,” he said. “The Prophet would walk without his cloak rather than disturb his cat’s sleep. Don’t do it.” We didn’t. We waited. We waited as one waits for a miracle and it happened on the day my dad came. He came early morning with Istanbul flight, a bit tired, but good-looking and kind as usual, his solid confidence in life and its possibilities visible on his face. We got distracted. I put tea. And then, there was the kitten. After three days of darkness on the edge, it emerged into life. I would want to say that it leaped into life, but it was still slow to leap. It looked famished but clean, with eyes no longer clouded, walk perfectly elegant, gently tentative. It was the first time my dad saw the kitten. We interrupted each other telling the story, drinking tea, clicking our tongues, rolling our eyes, overwhelmed in the perfect storm. My dad loved the kitten. It would walk him to the bathroom outside the house, sit and wait patiently, and walk back with him. “It’s true that cat has nine lives,” my mom said. I thought of Thomasina, a cat from a children’s book, her deaths and comebacks, transformations and reincarnations. That summer was bittersweet. My grandma had died in April. She was a beautiful, intense woman, often too dominant. Now gone forever, her absence loomed present in every one of her chicken, every mulberry from the 100 year old tree. My mother, who was a doctor, was devastated. She had taken her mother through cancer complications alone in a foreign land. I was fresh back from the States, with my master’s degree complete and a desire to go back again. My mother did not want me to, but she did not argue much. She was too tired. In mid-September, I left. I did not have a job or a place to stay in New York. To save money, I would sleep on my friend’s couch in Harlem. To my mother, this was odd. She was not at peace with my decision. She was a woman of solid certainties, of clear plans, of tangible outcomes. She let me go nonetheless. The evening before my New York flight, the kitten did not appear. I called and called for it, and thought it asleep. I woke up early in the morning, but the kitten never came. I left to the airport with no peace at heart. “How strange,” I thought. “Where could it be?” New York was indifferent, noisy and hot. I sat at Columbia campus, no longer part of it, my driving license expired, my student ID, my library card no longer valid. A stranger in the city of strangers. I called my mom. Almost immediately I asked about the kitten. “It hasn’t come,” she said. “I looked everywhere. I was out the whole morning searching. It hasn’t come.” Sadness had seeped into her voice. She sounded hurt and lonely. I felt empty and dizzy in New York’s heat. Where could the kitten be? It was saved by an almost divine intervention. My mother kept searching for days. Then, one day, she walked into the garage and almost fainted with the smell. She saw the kitten. It crawled under the water-pump engine and was electrocuted. There are only so many times you can outwit, outrun your destiny. I have seen my mother walking in the hospital room slowly after a surgery, with a tiny sack of blood protruding from somewhere, crawling behind her. I have imagined her flying from Warsaw to Baku, crying on the plane as her mother’s death, the finality of it, dawned on her. I have seen her fear, when she was misdiagnosed with cancer. Yet, in my heart of hearts, I never worried. I knew that my mother was a strong woman. But only when I think of her alone in that summer house, in the early hours of morning, searching for a kitten, calling it desperately, does my heart skip a beat. And even two.


Winter

Close to the end, my grandmother didn’t talk much. She would sit in front of Skype camera and tell me, “talk.” “What do you want me to talk about?” I said. “Anything,” she said. “Anything you say is interesting to me.” So I talked. I talked about my dreams. “It’s a good dream,” she would say invariably to all of them. I talked about gay Jews protesting Ahmadinejad’s speech on campus. (“I am gay and I am a Jew, and I am a grandson of two Holocaust survivors. I guess Mr.Ahmadinejad wouldn’t have liked me.”)I talked about how expensive organic food is in American supermarkets. I invented my heroic cooking acts. I told about my roommates, whose bras and shoes were mixed together on the floor. I talked about boys, or rather one boy – Irakli. He was Georgian and my grandma did not approve at all. She said they were arrogant. She was right. I don’t remember much of what my grandma had told me. A lot of her stories were not happy ones – chemotherapy, tests, symptoms, doubts, more tests and more chemotherapy. Occasionally, there would be an extremely good looking doctor and my grandma mobilized her charms in a language she did not know a single word of. There was one story though, true and cinematic, as I imagined it. It belonged to French films - Juliette Binoche in my mom’s role sitting at the bedside with her splendid lips and simple stylish black clothes. But it’s a true story, and life often trumps cinema. The spirits of those who were shot in Aurora, Colorado during the premiere of “The Dark Knight Rises” (note the title!) can attest. My grandmother had a lung cancer and a part of her left lung was cut. Doctors said she needed to do breathing exercises, to breathe deeply (to deep briefly?) to expand her lung’s functionality. Once, they told her to blow three balloons. She blew one. Another. Then she laid back and said that she is tired. My mother said, “come on, mom. It’s the last one.” My grandmother barely raised her head from the pillow. “Mama!” my mother said. “My breath is not enough,” said my grandma. “You can’t just lie there and hope to get better,” my mom said. “You have to be active. Even when it hurts, you have to be active.” My grandma shook her head. That was the end of it. Except that, it was not. My grandma did rise up from her bed and did blow the third balloon shortly after and my mother’s eyes sparkled with joy. And then, multiple times as my grandmother told me the story, she would always add, “and I knew then that they could give a house or a car or million dollars to Shahla, but none of it would make her as happy as that third balloon did. She kissed me on both cheeks and said, “Mama, that’s it. You will get better.” And then my grandma added: “I am a very happy woman. When I saw your mother’s eyes, I knew that I am a very happy woman.” My grandmother died shortly after.


Spring

Spring is an unbearable hope, a distant whiff of smoke, a slight change in the morning light, an expectation of beauty, a luminosity. Love. This particular spring, there are butterflies in my stomach. He is the coolest ever, el flor de mi secreto, the secret wink of a destiny after false starts, almost five years younger, but so very mature. I dream of Ushuaia, its cold lakes and hot coffees. Ushuaia is the end of the world. Beginning of everything. I tell my mother sitting at our kitchen table. I tell my mother in a tiny coffee bar, just before we cross the Chain Bridge in Budapest. I tell my mother as we sit in Big Ben teahouse, spooning our delicious dessert. I tell my mother as we walk sunny streets. She looks. She nods. She smiles. She understands. “He looks like a football star,” she says. “I dreamed of a big beautiful white car a week ago,” she said.

UKRAINE: STRANGE AND BEAUTIFUL

These past days have been strange. Strange and beautiful in sublime, quiet and melancholic way. Yesterday we went on a long field trip to Kurakhovo. We left at 8 AM with two cars. Four of us were squeezed in a Duster. Land Cruiser was filled with medicines and surgery kits for the hospital. Riding through the blanket of silence and snow in eastern Ukraine, you feel at the end of the world. Mariupol is at the coast of Azov Sea. The climate is humid and the trees freeze spectacularly, each little twig, each little branch forming a separate thin icy Popsicle. We pass a checkpoint. Checkpoints in this desolate, endless landscape fascinate me. We slow the car, turn down the radio volume and open our windows. I peer through balaclavas trying to discern soldiers’ features. Most are young. Some chop wood, others smoke. Locals speak Russian. Those who speak Ukrainian with a hard accent are from Zakarpattia, the westernmost region of Ukraine. They wave us to pass and we dive into the white blanket again. As we reach Volnovakha, we see a beautiful tile mosaic of a young woman and a young man holding hands under the bright socialist sun. The sun’s delicious roundness and yellowness is further amplified by snow. We slow down at another mobile checkpoint close to Ugledar. The patrol asks if we know a password and we say no. We are let through. Few people standing on the curb along the way smile and wave. Red Cross is recognizable everywhere. We reach Kurakhovo. At Kurakhovo city, we have a long discussion with local authorities. The situation at the frontline villages is desperate. There is no gas, no electricity, no coal, no wood, no nothing. By now everyone singsongs the “no gas, no water, no electricity” at a single breath. It is very usual and nothing to be surprised at. If the villages are not under shelling, the humanitarian situation is not considered desperate per se. Winter in Ukraine is ruthless, the biting urgency of cold always a menace. Fields are mined and people are afraid to go into the forested areas to chop for wood. Think about spending a night in an apartment with windows blown out to pieces by shelling. Think about cooking for your children. Think about teaching them how to react to shelling. The war is a cruel, dirty, disgusting thing. No European aspirations, no patriotism, not even the splendid yellow-blue flag symbolizing the deep blue sky over sunny wheat fields can justify it. It’s here, in Ukraine, that I understand this with a clarity and sharpness of a well-polished diamond. I grew up in post-Soviet Azerbaijan. My early childhood was marked by our war with Armenia over Karabakh. I wrote an uncountable number of school compositions on 20 th of January (violent Russian crackdown on peaceful Baku civilians) and 26 th of February (the largest massacre of civilians during the conflict in a small Azerbaijani town of Khojali). So when my grandmother said that she would not want my brother to fight for Karabakh, if he wouldn’t be able to walk on Karabakhi soil, I considered her argument unpatriotic at best and treacherous at worst. Only here, I recognize how wise she was. And I yearn to go to her grave and to whisper it. After the meeting at the city council, we go to Kurakhovo district hospital to donate some medical stuff. The head doctor has a reputation of being an asshole, but he isn’t. He is a slightly tired man with intelligent and ironic eyes. He is overwhelmed. Krasnogorovka hospital which is under constant shelling at the frontline is being moved to Kurakhovo. The hospital in Kurakhovo is already overpopulated, with 200 people for 130 beds. Where will he fit new patients and doctors? He welcomes us as a distraction from this logistical puzzle. He asks me where I am from. Upon learning that I am from “sunny Azerbaijan” (this is how Azerbaijan is traditionally referred to in ex-USSR countries) he tells a not particularly believable but all the more enjoyable story about his trip to Baku in 1980s. Upon arriving to Baku’s main train station he tried to catch a suburban electric train to one of the villages on the Caspian sea. The loudspeaker announcing the timetable was in Azeri, so he rushed to the dispatcher’s cabin to get an answer. None was given and after many rounds of running around, he finally asked the driver of the train where this elektrichka was going. The jewel of the story was that the driver did not know either. I look at the doctor and imagine him thirty years ago as a young, blond, skinny student lost at a train station, absolutely clueless. I imagine the driver with a rich moustache and kind dark eyes, shrugging his shoulders. I feel the hustle of the train station filled with people carrying watermelons and melons and fresh meat for kabab to their summer houses at the beach. We start a small talk about which wind brought me here from “such a beautiful place.” I tell the doctor that both my mother and my aunt are doctors and I have an immense respect to the “doctor tribe.” He is curious on how my doctor family let me come to the “wild west” of Ukraine. “I am sure it didn’t happen without serious scandals,” he says. I say that I feel completely safe. He says “come on, be serious” – and from a slight pause I feel that he wanted to say “don’t be ridiculous” instead – “how can you feel safe with bombs falling around?” I answer that it is far from Mariupol, we don’t hear much and I have a sound sleep. He remains unconvinced. “It is far from Kurakhovo also,” he tells, “but I never feel safe.” Then the doctor solves the riddle. He tells me that he worked in Libya for 5-6 years. When the mess after the fall of Qaddafi started, he chose to leave. He always knew that he could leave at any moment, this was not his country. His story is different with Ukraine. Ukraine, he couldn’t leave whereas I could. So I feel safe and he doesn’t. I have a choice, but he doesn’t. His argument is irrefutable, so I agree.